Friday, December 07, 2007

Parfums 06130 Feuille de Reglisse

When I met Nicolas Chabert, founder of Parfums 06130, or the French pronunciation Zero Six Cent-Trent, I was impressed with his knowledge of the art of perfumery and also with his origins. The prestige inherent in residing in Grasse, France was not lost on this perfumista! (Remember, this is where the art of perfumery was born.) Even more impressive is the name of this house. It is the zip code of Grasse, France which further underscores the owners' dedication to perfumery. Knowing all this, I was elated to try all of the fragrances he so passionately represented.

To say that the Feuille de Reglisse is original is truly an understatement. I would venture to say that it must be worn by a true fragrance connoisseur, for it is ineffably unique. Feuille de Reglisse translates to "licorice leaf" and lends itself to interpretation since licorice is actually a root, not a leaf. (I vaguely remember Mr. Chabert referencing this point and wish I had had a tape recorder with me!) That fact is only the tip of the iceberg. This fragrance is truly a study in dichotomy, a study that only true fragrance lovers can appreciate.

The leaf of a licorice plant would be subtly suggestive of the root, with a softer, more transparent scent. And that is exactly what this fragrance manages to pull off. The strong top notes of heliotrope and anise boldly announce the fragrance for the first five minutes of wear, however this sharp opening bears little resemblance to the heart and base of the fragrance. Herein lies the dichotomy. Very few fragrances have such a drastically different opening and heart. After proudly wearing Feuille de Reglisse for nearly a week, I have realized an interesting routine with it. Immediately following first spritz I avoid sniffing at all. Rather, I wait for the subtle, soft and soothing heart to emerge and wash over me like a warm blanket. It never fails. Delicate muguet and sweet orange flower bring forth the transparent and soft qualities of this fragrance. This stage is the one that I favor and I find it beautifully soft and slightly powdery. The base notes of sweetly spicy ginger, nutmeg, cardamom and earthy cedarwood substantially ground Feuille de Reglisse. Although the combination of notes alone could inspire fear in the hearts of those who loathe spicy scents, the spice of Feuille de Reglisse is deceptively subtle. It is remarkably well-blended, true to the company's mission. Finally, it is suitable for every day wear.

I predict this fragrance will not take the fragrance community by storm but rather will slowly sneak up on unsuspecting perfumistas looking for a soft, subtle and truly different scent that is destined to be a star. The contrast between notes, the distinct progression of scent from top to bottom, the company's commitment to the art of perfumery and the uniqueness of this fragrance catapult it into a very prestigious category - celebrated niche.

Find the pun in my above post to be entered in a drawing for a large sample of this excellent new fragrance!

Feuille de Reglisse is available at, Takashimaya and other exclusive retailers. A 3.4 oz. bottle retails for $145.

Photo of bottle, courtesy aedes. Licorice plant courtesy of


Anonymous said...

Ok, this scent sounds magnificent so I would love to win. The pun is ..... the licorice plant is dioecious (separate male and female plants/flowers) "that makes this fragrance a study in dichotomy."

The Federalist said...

You are so clever my little perfumista. What I found was not merely a pun, but a rhetorical literary device known as a "Roman ironic (pun)". This type of irony is classical in nature, that is to say, the words express the exact opposite of their meaning and/or intent.

Your use of "celebrated" is quite ironic, given the fact that you have peppered your review of this fragrance with words like "unsuspecting", "soft" and "deceptively subtle".

The pun appears with the use of the word "niche". "Niche" can be used in describing an "ecological niche". In this context, "niche" is detailing the relationship that one organism has with another in the same habitat. You described vividly the relationship you have with this particular fragrance, basing it on the structure, physiology and behavior. You are nearly personifying it and giving it, therefore, ecological qualities.

Can a brother get some perfume???

maitreyi1978 said...

I think it's the "dioecious"/"dichotomy" reference that's the pun. Enter me in the drawing please.

Anonymous said...

well, of course the name of the house as the zip of the heart of perfumery is definitely a pun, but you already stated that very obviously. (I just want to get in on the drawing for the sample!) :)

tmp00 said...

Is the pun "celebrated niche"?

Or is it calling 06130 a zip code? (the house name confused me at first- I was like "is this made in Connecticut or something?"