Liaisons Dangereuses by Kilian typical me

"... the Parisian orgy is a source of pleasure... Bodies slick with sweat, hot with the odours of sexual favours bestowed and received during the night. In line with the 18th-century libertine tradition, these [two] fragrances symbolize transgression, the pleasures of the flesh and defiance of prohibitions and conventions."

With that description if the juice is half-way decent, I am sold! In this case, the juice is more than half-way decent. When I met Kilian Henessy of by Kilian perfumes I was charmed by his looks and impressed by his humility. This former marketing executive of L'Oreal is an heir to the Henessy cognac family and a delightful Frenchman at that. (One sentence pronounced with a heavy French accent and I am intrigued beyond belief and a little hot and bothered.)

I was more than happy to sample these new, mysterious offerings in gorgeous black bottles at Bergdorf Goodman the morning of October 20th. And I found one to take home with me.

Liaisons Dangereuses is an interesting mingling of notes, one for fragrance aficionados since it is not obviously appealing. Rather, this fragrance offers mystery and elicits statements such as "What is that fantastic smell?" I have seen descriptions vary, from one in this month's Allure magazine describing it as plum over oakmoss to this web page that suggests geranium over cinnamon. From what I recall when I tested it, I was moved by heavy fruitiness over just a touch of woods. As I wear this at home (which is usually a more accurate impression), the fragrance begins smelling just slightly of mint to my nose. The mint is mixed with fruit, like a refreshing and uplifting herbal tea. After a full five minutes of the minty-fruity accord, the fragrance dries and it becomes much deeper and slightly animalic, something I would expect from a fragrance meant to evoke the libertine 18th-Century. Plum over oakmoss is not a bad description at all. And yet this fragrance is so much more than that. The geranium slowly enters the olfactory symphony during the heart stage of this fragrance and it dominates the delicately spicy, sweet cinnamon making it almost undetectable. Finally, earthy sandalwood and sensual musk round out the base, amping up the sex appeal to full tilt.

Freedom of sexual expression exemplifies libertine 18th-Century Europe. "If it feels good, do it" sparked a movement that bucked all laws, religions, morals and constraints. Simply no regard for social norms or "good" behavior counter-balanced the religious movements that had previously dominated politics and social behavior. Although libertines could not achieve anything politically due to their radical nature, they certainly brought forth some delicious entertainment. I applaud any fragrance designed to highlight this period of history, the age of one of my favorite painters Caravaggio, the intriguing poet Giambattista Marino and the Casanova, Giovanni Giacomo.

The most impressive facet of the entire By Kilian collection is its packaging. As Mr. Henessy expressed, your personal fragrance is your weapon as you go throughout the day. Thus, each bottle contains an ornate shield design. The gorgeous black bottle fits snugly inside a satin lined black lacquer box which can be locked with a small key that dangles from black tassel. Just superb.

By Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses and the entire L'Oeuvre Noire collection are available at Bergdorf Goodman. The refillable bottle sells for $225.

Image courtesy of luxist.com and Casanova courtesy of britannica.com