The Promise of Spring in a Bottle, Guerlain Cruel Gardenia

I grew up in the Midwest and enjoyed all four seasons.  Although the richness and coziness of autumn was my favorite, spring held a close second in my heart.  How could a fragrance lover dislike the hundreds of fragrant, colorful flowers blooming in spring?  I recall tulips, lilacs, daffodils, lavender, hyacinth and magnolia, gifting my yard and my nose, reminding me that summer (and a break from school!) was on the way.  My grandmother adored roses and her rose garden the envy of her neighbors, featuring every species of rose you can imagine.  I moved west to the desert over a decade ago.  The ability to count on the sun shining daily has grounded me here but I do, at times, miss the nuances of the seasons back home, especially the spring flowers.

Spring in the desert entails two simple things around my home: first the scent of  lush, fragrant orange blossoms wafting through the air, and second longer days of balmy, sunny weather.  Once our triple digit heat sets in to torture us for a full five months, we long to return to these beautiful days so I make every effort to enjoy each last minute right now.  Rain, the hallmark of spring's entrance in most climes, eludes us. The blooms of my childhood favorite flowers cannot endure the rampant sun. In the absence of those lush lilacs, lilies, magnolia and roses I cling to my orange blossoms and a great floral fragrance to remind me of my youth. (Granted, I could plant some gardenia or roses in my yard, but a brown thumb prevents me from helping them survive!)

When I first tried Guerlain Cruel Gardenia from the L'Art et la Matiere collection, I at once returned to my childhood.  I recall sitting in my back yard with my dog, anticipating the scent of the surrounding gardens my mother had planted to grace my nose. No one scent overpowered the other as I studied blades of grass and soaked up long awaited sunrays.  Cruel Gardenia resembles just that quiet experience, the scent of flowers being carried on a breeze.  In its early development, neroli and peach escort the sun; bright, light and cheerful.  The stage is clearly set and remains on this light note, never darkening into a more sultry tone.  Instead, various blossoms tenderly embrace the nose over the course of wear including rose, gardenia, ylang ylang and violet. At moments I am reminded of other greenly floral fragrances like Chanel No. 19 or Gucci Envy, but I find disappointment in the fact that the gardenia never truly holds front and center.  Musk and sandalwood offer a nice base for the fragrance, but they certainly do not deepen it.  I was hoping for a take no prisoners gardenia, one that grabs hold of my attention and begs me to surrender.  But alas, this gardenia is never cruel, and only subtle.

I dabbed the sample on my skin and I realize a dab certainly has less impact than a spray.  Nonetheless, it lingered only for a few hours or so, again reminding me of those spring days of my youth.  The effect it leaves is that of a refined floral, very well constructed and not at all offensive.  If I could spray it with abandon maybe it would bring more pizazz?  I picture wearing this on a spring day when I want to feel pretty and remember those spring days of my youth, accessorized with pink lipstick and a crisp white shirt.  I do not hesitate to reference it "spring in a bottle" and a very expensive bottle at that.  Cruel Gardenia beats many department store, massly produced, often copied fruity florals that dominate the market lately.  (If only women would stop buying mediocre fragrances and substitute those with one Guerlain!) I find it utterly wearable and delicate. If gifted to me, I would gladly wear it; I just do not feel compelled to buy it. 

Guerlain Cruel Gardenia is available at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman.  A 2.5 ounce atomizer spray retails for $250. 

Draw Winner Announced!

Thank you to those who participated in the drawing for a generous sample of Byredo Accord Oud.  I am pleased with all the feedback and will gladly review each fragrance mentioned over the course of the next few weeks.  Without further ado, the winner is ....


Bellatrix!! 

Your name was selected through randomizer and you are the lucky winner.  Please send your full name and address to tmh256@live.com.  Thank you for playing!

Drawing

I have gobs of perfume.  I mean gobs.  I adore sharing from my stash (what is the pleasure in hoarding?) so I will randomly post drawings for generous decants.  This will be the first in what I plan to be a weekly endeavor.  Enter here in the comments section for the first offering - a generous glass vial atomizer of my beloved Byredo Accord Oud!  Simply suggest a scent for review from the following list and your name will be randomized:

Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine and White Moss
Givenchy π
Guerlain Cruel Gardenia
Montale Boisè Vanillè
Parfumerie Generale Bois Blond

Winner announced Friday!

A History of Perfume from The Fragrance House

I am pleased to present a most kind gift from The Fragrance House, featuring an informative history on perfume as an artform.  Enjoy!  Please stay tuned for a review to be posted Friday.
The History Of Perfume

A Lab On Fire What We Do In Paris Is Secret

I wanted my inaugural review after my respite to feature an inspiring fragrance.  I have sampled many in the last year but none so inspiring to propel my mind out of its writing slumber.  When I started researching A Lab On Fire I was surprised at their small, focused laboratory in New York.  I like small and focused.  I think limited production can create stellar concepts.  Furthermore, when I discovered Dominique Ropion had his hand in What We Do In Paris Is Secret, I knew it would be artistic.  Dominique Ropion is the nose behind my beloved Frederic Malle Carnal Flower and my mother's beloved Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady.

What I did not know before sampling this fragrance is it would surpass my love of Serge Luten's Chergui, that I would press my nose to the spot where I dabbed it a hundred times in less than an hour, and, most importantly, that I would want to write about it.  This fragrance is an inspiring intrigue all right.

The notes on A Lab On Fire's website name bergamot, honey and lychee at the top, a heart of Turkish rose essence, vanilla and heliotrope on a base of tonka bean, tolu, sandalwood and ambergris.  At once I smell the honey and vanilla, freshened but not sweetened by the citrusy lychee.  As it lingers on the skin, heliotrope dominates with the warmth of tonka bean, rich resin of tolu, and bright yet sensual sandalwood grounding it.  The Turkish rose essence must have a minimal offering, for I barely detect it.  I am certain in  M. Ropion's mind it no doubt serves a purpose.  I have historically enjoyed creamy and sweet, vanillic fragrances so it is not surprising I found love at first sniff with What We Do In Paris Is Secret.  I love it for the same reason I adore nuzzling my cat just behind the ear, or munching on my baby boy's neck, or even wrapping a soft pashmina around my shoulder in a chilled moment.

What We Do In Paris Is Secret, the title so long I must now abbreviate (WWDIPIS), reminds me of the qualities I appreciate in Serge Lutens Chergui -- sweet, comforting, rich and sexy.  Even though I love Luten's creation, I surprisingly only reach for it on cold winter nights and its spiciness can be a bit much for me.  I find WWDIPIS wearable anytime, anywhere - a beautifully sexy comfort scent that remains close to the skin but when sprayed at the nape of the neck shares that comfort with others.  I ironically chose to review it on a day that I mentioned another comfort scent, Bvlgari Blv, and WWDIPIS has striking similarity to the characteristics of that beautiful fragrance as well.  I have also seen this fragrance compared to Nicolai's Kiss Me Tender and Kenzo's Amour. 

On the whole, this fragrance is beautiful enough to stand on its own merit without comparison.  Although I realize the title may be viewed as pretentiously long, I would love a stranger to ask me what I am wearing so that I can say the name!  I adore the graphic packaging as it reiterates the urban chic of the lab.  With this fragrance, the small and focused house have succeeded.  I have no doubt What We Do In Paris Is Secret will be loved by many.

A Lab On Fire What We Do In Paris Is Secret is available at luckyscent.com.  A 60ml Eau de Parfum retails for $110.

Redefined: Byredo Accord Oud

I believe we can redefine ourselves with a scent. Maybe I just take myself too seriously. Maybe I long for variety more than the average woman. But a few weeks ago, I wanted to become someone else -- someone more sophisticated than the baby toting, Barney song singing, bottle preparing, make-up-less Mommy that I am of late. I wanted to feel different. I knew I needed a scent to inspire this virtual transformation.



I found it. I found the one that makes me want to paint my lips, tousle my hair, speak a little slower, bare some shoulder skin and bat my eyelashes. I found the one that helps me forget the tedious tasks of the day and instead focus on sensation, emotion, tenderness. I found the one that highlights my wise, determined nature. Finally, I found the one that takes me to dimly lit rooms, crackling fires, velvety rugs and blankets. It is Byredo Accord Oud.


Founded by Indian creative Ben Gorham, Byredo is a Stockholm based house that believes in limiting raw materials and focusing on quality of craftsmanship. Accord Oud is one of fourteen in the catalog, along with various high quality candles, soaps and body washes.


The scent begins fresh, with notes like clean clary sage and tender blond woods accented by dry leather which initially demands all olfactory attention. As it evolves on the skin, Accord Oud takes on a simultaneously rich, smoky, nutty quality. Juicy blackberry and plum, rich, intoxicating rum with spicy saffron and cinnamon develop as the scent adheres and grounds itself to the skin. Surprisingly, the effect is neither sweet nor wet but rather dry, elegant, meaty, almost edible. Like L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore’s wise, clean, intellectual mentor, Accord Oud is startlingly refined and exceptionally interesting. In its entirety, Accord Oud resembles nothing I have previously experienced. The oud craze passed me by as too heady and the revival of leather-based scents appeared trendy. However, I declare Byredo Accord Oud the quiet, sophisticated leather oud – for those who previously dismissed these notes.


Here is where the scent redefines me: no flowers. This former opulent white floral lover has embraced a scent that completely lacks blooms. In so doing, I instantly reveal my new identity: grown up sophisticate. (I am definitely taking myself too seriously!) In all sincerity, I am a different woman than I was before bearing children. Byredo Accord Oud’s classy, interesting, unique aura lends an extra edge and elegance to my long, maternal days.

*Posted last March on Perfume-Smellin Things

For the love of leather

Two leather-featuring scents captivated me last winter and continue to do so.  Accord Oud by Byredo takes first place.  Its leather and oud lusciousness transports me to even chillier temps and dimly lit, sophisticated lounges, toasty fires and Italian leather club chairs; its hint of ladylike blackberry, clary sage and powdery musk act to ground the scent and prevent it from overwhelming the nose.  The second, L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversée du Bosphore -- velvety leather that morphs into nutty, gourmand goodness and eventually musky vanilla – pairs perfectly with stylish boots and a colorful scarf during winter’s cooler days in the desert. 

Ineke Contest

Enter for a chance to win a full sized bottle from Ineke's Floral Curiosities line here

Puredistance Antonia

Puredistance Antonia is an adventurous romantic with a lush, floral heart.  Adopting a playful and cheerful demeanor, the scent initially releases green floral notes which spring up as verdant, promising and stunning.  Set to the rhythm of a sweet and soaring vanilla base, hints of delicate jasmine, rich orris and majestic rose joyfully dance and erupt in elation on a soft, green bed of vetiver as if celebrating spring’s long awaited arrival. 

The addition of galbanum carries the charming dance into the damp night, adding polish to the composition and rendering the fragrance downright gorgeous.  Antonia is a poetic expression of a soft, refined and floral beauty.  The scent lingers with a gentle kiss and the promise of a glorious, new day. 

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première

I am one of the lucky ladies who can wear Chanel No. 5 with confidence. I know it frustrates some. All those aldehydes and flowers can sometimes clash with a person’s skin. But on me, it sings. I am grateful. (In other olfactory categories I am quite unlucky so I am certainly not bragging here.)

Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is for those who may have become frustrated with the original. It is quintessentially No. 5 for the new generation. In order to compare with some accuracy, I am wearing Chanel No. 5 Eau de Parfum on one arm and Chanel No. 5 Eau Première on the other. The contrast between the two is quite simple: the Eau Première has a higher backbeat, a lack of sharpness, softer edges and a sweeter drydown. The lush floral notes remain: neroli, ylang-ylang, rose, iris and jasmine. It lasts even longer on my skin than the Eau de Parfum and when I wear it, I receive repeated, unsolicited compliments.

Why did I choose it as the scent to accompany the new Chrysler advertisement? Read more about that here.  Even though the focus is on an American car, I believe French perfume to be the epitome of style in the most classic sense. If we want to bring that style and glamour back to the forefront, what better choice than a modern, French, meticulously crafted nod to the past?

I pause when saying this knowing it is a bold statement, but I truly believe the world would be a much better place if all women who use perfume wore Chanel – not No. 5 specifically but most Chanel fragrances (with the exception of Chance). Never overwhelming, always sophisticated, and always glamourous is Chanel. A close second would be Estée Lauder.  However, I find the classic Estée Lauder choices I can wear to be limited.  So, my vote remains Chanel.  I will leave you with the advertisement and those thoughts to ponder.

Chrysler Advertisement


Chanel No. 5 Eau Première is available in a 5 oz. bottle at Saks Fifth Avenue and various online sources.  Prices range from $110 to $158.

Happy Valentine's Day

Here are my thoughts on my first perfume love, posted to Perfume Smellin' Things this morning.  Please share with me your first perfume love and what impacted you about that fragrance.  Have a wonderful Valentine's Day with your loved ones!

They say you never forget your first love.  That is true in romance and it is equally true in fragrance.  I remember with vivid detail my first perfume love.  I remember saving my wrinkled dollar bills from my steady babysitting job to purchase her.  I remember learning how to say her name.  I remember bravely walking into the store, setting my sites on the opulent fragrance counter that I had frequented with my aunt, and asking for her.  I remember feeling so grown up in acquiring her at a mere fourteen years old.  I remember exploring her white, clean packaging, studying her curves and inhaling her fragrance.  Yes, I remember … Her name was Anaïs Anaïs by Cacharel.  I can conjure her scent in an instant, for she accompanied me nearly every day through my sophomore year of high school.  She mentored me like a loving, big sister.  A little powdery, a lot floral and definitely not sophomoric, her sophistication embraced my wholesome, naïve adole-scents.  Yet, her lack of overly musky or animalic bases ensured her consistent appeal to my untrained nose. Cheerful orange blossom, sweet lily and springtime hyacinth underscored by sandalwood and incense, Anaïs Anaïs’ accords are always appropriate, even for my strict, parochial school days.  If only the pains of growing up were not associated with her, I would reconnect with her, asking for another warm embrace.  Instead, I will always remember …  with love and adoration.

Draw Winner!

The winner of the draw for a decant of fragrance that, to me, personifies the new Chrysler commercial is ....   ALICE!! 

Thank you to everyone who voted.  Alice's name was randomly drawn using annabet.com.  Alice will receive a generous decant of my beloved Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere.  Congratulations Alice!  Please send your address to tmh256@live.com.

Please stay tuned for a review on Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere.