Thursday, March 01, 2007

Chanel Les Exclusifs 31 Rue Cambon

The artistry comprising the new Les Exclusifs should be mimicked by perfumers worldwide. When Polges created these scents, he did so on his own time without marketing pressure to make a quick dollar. Choosing quality over swiftness, he desired to capture not only amazing scents, but also the essence, if you will, of the Chanel family. In that vein, I present to you today 31 Rue Cambon, the address of the Chanel Boutique in Paris, near the Place de la Concorde. On the third floor above the store in an apartment, Coco Chanel entertained. According to Polges, as intimated by Chandler Burr of the Herald Tribune, he was incredibly struck by this space and the extravagant objects in it. In honor of it, he set out to create a "modernized chypre": 31 Rue Cambon.

My friends, this is destined to be a classic. Upon first test, I thought, "Ah! Now that is a Chanel!" The interesting, elaborate combination of citrus, herbs, and florals rather than traditional oak moss positions this fragrance in a class all its own. The result is reminiscent of the queen of perfume, Chanel No. 5, yet slightly less floral, dryer and more musky. It is less green but just as complex as Sous Le Vent. And it is very similar to my nose to Guerlain Attrape-Couer. I resort to comparison because this fragrance is so difficult for me to describe. Distinguishing the notes in this one is next to impossible for me. However, I thought it important to highlight this fragrance quickly as I foresee it to be the most popular of the bunch.

Unfortunately, I will not be wearing it. It is far too chypre for my nose. Please note that I have had extreme difficulty pulling off dry chypre fragrances for quite a long time. As they say in love, "There is someone for everyone." Or in the art world, "There is a painting for everyone." Translating into perfume terms, "There is a scent for everyone." I have no doubt many fragrance aficionados will adore 31 Rue Cambon for years to come. And those new to the love of fragrance, please try this one and wear it with pride. It is undoubtedly an exquisite work of art.

Image source: hindu magazine, photos of Coco's apartment from "The House that Chanel Built"
Les Exclusifs de Chanel are available at Chanel Boutiques and Bergdorf Goodman


chayaruchama said...

Hello, my dear !
This is another beauty, but it's a chameleon perfume...
Changes every time you put it on.
I would love it more if it were more concentrated; my decant will do me for now.

Don't be anguished- chypres can be very hard to accommodate, especially when you're really a floral girl.

You have the chemistry that makes indolics 'bloom' on you.

Have a great day !

violetnoir said...

I agree: 31 Rue Cambon is the show-stopper of the six new Les Exclusifs. I love its nutty, rich texture.

I just wish it was sold in EdP or parfum. When and if either of these is available, I plan to purchase a bottle. But for now, like Chaya Ruchama, I am enjoying my decants.


ForTheLoveOfPerfume said...

Hello Chaya!

I wish I could perceive the chameleon aspect of it. My dislike of dry chypres prevents me from sniffing enough to discern its nuances. I am definitely a floral/citrus girl!

You have a wonderful day also! Mwah.

ForTheLoveOfPerfume said...

Hello R.,

Remembering how wonderful MDCI K3 smells on you, I have no doubt you accommodate 31 Rue Cambon quite well! Not that the two are similar in notes - they are similar in their incongruence with my chemistry. You my friend, are fortunate to wear them well!

I am crossing my fingers to speed up the parfum release for you!


violetnoir said...

T, I am stunned that you were able to read my mind, because the same thing occurred to me, too: Enlevement Au Serail (the official name for FK #3) and 31 Rue Cambon are fragrance sisters. I believe that some of the notes are identical.

Accordingly, I conducted a fragrance comparison two nights ago. FK #3 is a bit more floral and sweeter, while 31 Rue Cambon is nuttier, a bit earthier.

Which one do I like better? That's hard to say. But considering the fact that 31 Rue Cambon is not *yet* available in parfum, and FK #3 will not be shipped to Luckyscent at least for another month...or so...I have plenty of time to ponder this earth-shattering question. :):)


ForTheLoveOfPerfume said...

Hi R!

I knew there was a reason I was associating the two! That is amazing. And I love the name for FK#3! Either way you go R, I think you will be happy. Your adoration of the MDC was obvious to me and it smelled glorious on you. As did Tocca Florence, which I have purchased since and have already received numerous compliments on it.

Have a great night!

Anonymous said...
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Anonymous said...

Hi, T! This one sounds really interesting. Of course, voiletnoir's description of it being nuttier and earthier caught my attention! Think I might like it?

Have a great day!
Linda B-D

ForTheLoveOfPerfume said...

Hi Linda!

I definitely think it is worth trying for you. You can order samples from Fishbone96 on e-bay. She is a very reputable seller and she's offering samples and decants of Les Exclusifs. Enjoy and have a great weekend.


Deepo said...

I just bought Rue Cambon - I so love it. It's been compared to Chypre rouge which I also own. I find them very different. CR is a bit deeper but sometimes less accessible. I can wear RC anytime and I'm smelling the drydown now at the end of the day and it's just heavenly. Like others, I wish they were smaller bottles (and smaller prices), but Les Exclusifs are all worth it (I own 3 now)