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Fondly,
Tamara

Etat Libre D'Orange: Sample Pack Review, Part 3 of 3

The final batch from my Etat Libre D’Orange sample pack, garnered from Lucky Scent when they originally launched the line. It does not include the one scent that attracted so much attention --Secretions Magnifique – nor the newer offerings Sex Pistols and Noel au Balcon.

Antihéros – Antihéros offers perhaps the most verdant, unending fields of lavender grounded by some woods and musk. Remove the fancy description. This is what you want to scent your pillow and your bedroom, and maybe your partner when desiring calm, peace, tranquility.

Divin’ Enfant – The opening offers the same vein of marshmallow and orange blossom delicacy and innocence as By Kilian’s Love. However, rather than remaining somewhere between “innocence and not,” Divin’ Enfant develops, without apology, into a tantalizing, sexy leather and coffee accord. Mais non? You do not find leather and coffee sexy? Give this one a try and you will know exactly what I mean.

Putain de Palaces – Unabashedly feminine, lushly floral, delicately spicy and … loud, Putain de Palaces shouts from the rooftops, “Look! Look at me!!!” A gorgeous study on sweet flowers (rose, violet, lily of the valley) underscored by ginger, this fragrance reminds me of a woman wearing too many frills who needs to learn the art of subtlety. Nonetheless, it beats ninety-five percent of mass marketed fragrances today. For those who love lush, powdery, sweet florals, Putain de Palaces deserves a sniff.

Rossy de Palma – Rossy de Palma offers a bewitching study on rose in a less than classical sense. True to its namesake, it is beautiful in a strange, odd sort of way. I visualize scarlet, fully bloomed roses underscored by chocolate with a dash of peppery spices – a perfect choice for Valentine’s Day. Spray some at the nape of your neck, in your hair, and in your clothing; it wafts from the skin fairly quickly.

Je Suis Un Homme – A scent that apologizes to no one for being exactly what it was designed to be: a classic cologne providing masculine qualities. After bergamot and citrus make their quick entrance and subsequent departure, birch wood and cognac linger, offering a divinely smoky quality. The latter notes prompt me to offer a glowing recommendation for Je Suis Un Homme; the former notes suggest a simple nod to classic bergamot-inspired cologne. If my husband were to wear this, I would nuzzle him incessantly.

Eloge du Traitor – This offering introduced me to an entirely new scent category. At first sniff, it was so familiar and yet so odd. With pine, bay leaf and artemisia headlining, to describe Eloge du Traitor as herbaceous would be a gross understatement. Simultaneously bitter and sweet, with a dense quality, Eloge du Traitor prompts me to pack some trail mix and my camera to set off for a mysterious daytime adventure into the lush Coconino National Forest. I will retire at a cozy log cabin that is scented with this interesting gem.

My overall impression of this line: interesting and unique fragrances with a provocative, slightly risky shtick. The scents offer an impressive experience of every olfactory category. I would have dismissed Etat Libre D’Orange as juvenile based upon their appearance alone, but in doing so would have missed out. I may purchase Divin’ Enfant and Vraie Blonde.

Etat Libre d’Orange: Sample Pack Review, Part 2 of 3

Vierges et Toreros – The marketing metaphor is compelling enough: heady tuberose, the”virgin” in a bull fight arena against the animal, resinous notes of leather, costus, and patchouli, or the “torero.” The torero appears to win to the bystander, but to the nose tuberose is ultimately victorious in a passionate battle. On my skin it initially fares more like faint tuberose painfully losing with leather and pepper victorious. The leather note smells slightly of rubber. Tuberose when paired with other olfactory categories tends to disappear on my skin – one of the reasons I sadly cannot wear Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle. However, when tuberose is paired with other floral notes -- as in Frederic Malle Carnal Flower – it lasts for days on me. Based upon my experience, my first impression verdict on Vierges et Toreros? Too much torero and not enough virgin, metaphorically speaking, of course. However, after giving it about fifteen to twenty minutes to develop, I stand corrected. That small, creamy, white flower has some punch. The leather mutes tuberose’s typically heady quality and renders the scent downright alluring.

Nombrile Immense – Not my mother’s bottle of patchouli oil from her bell-bottom wearing, rebellious hippy days. Oh no. This is premiere quality, quiet, reverent patchouli for practicing yoga and meditating. The added notes of vetiver, opoponax and absolute ambrette seeds render this patchouli-based scent absolutely wearable yet casual and introspective. Vetiver literally takes over during the course of development and although categorized as unisex by Lucky Scent, Nombrile Immense could very well constitute a small decant purchase for my husband.

Delicious Closet Queen – Directly opposing on every level the type of fragrance I like to wear, Delicious Closet Queen is so repugnant to my nose that it is very quickly giving me a headache. However, I can imagine that some would quite like this blend of piquant violet leaf, tangy geranium and masculine cedar with strawberry, leather and tonka bean. I can understand its name, for it is a study in contrast; however, the name belies its sophistication. The fact that this scent frankly disagrees with my chemistry is unfortunate. Do not let that deter you from trying. I will be curious to hear what you think.

Charogne – I really wanted to like this, if only to temper Charogne’s ridiculous marketing message. Who wants to wear a fragrance of death? In this case, lily is the lightweight in an unfair battle against the metaphorical “beast” of animalic leather. To be direct, this smells like floral tar on my skin. Although slightly sweet, it is still tar. I would not be caught dead wearing this one.

These four do not stand out as my favorites from Etat Libre d’Orange. Regardless, I am detecting a theme. The marketing of these fragrances – their name, the vignettes that underscore their name on the packaging, and the animation depicting each scent – cheapens their outstanding composition. The marketing team probably wanted to present an original idea, perhaps a modern design, to attract customers. However, a sophisticated, classic theme fits them much better.

Etat Libre d’Orange: Sample Pack Review, Part 1 of 3

My re-entry into obsessing about perfume begins. All it took was finding a sample pack of Etat Libre d’Orange scents that I had ordered from Lucky Scent when they added the line to their inventory. These scents added decadence to my chore-filled weekend; I enjoyed said chores with intermittent inhales of the fragrances on my wrist and hands. Each transported me to a different place and time. In no particular order, I offer my newfound foray into description.

Jasmin et Cigarette – So far, my favorite although I have not yet tried Like This or Don’t Get Me Wrong Baby – both appealing to my sensibilities. If Jasmin et Cigarette’s olfactory stages were arranged on a tabletop, here is that tabletop’s description: a freshly opened pack of non-filter cigarettes front and center, a bouquet of creamy, freshly-picked jasmine blossoms just north of the pack of cigarettes, one lush, just-bitten apricot to the right and scattered tonka bean seeds to the left. Grouped together, the lovely scent offers endless material for the nose. I cannot stop sniffing.

Vraie Blonde – Sparkling, opalescent and pretty, undeniably yellow and youthful, Vraie Blonde is aldehydes just the way I like them: fun. I picture my daughter, faintly smelling of candied fruit, chasing butterflies and picking dandelions as she giggles, her blonde hair blowing in the wind. The promise of suede and curvaceous sexiness eludes me at first. This fragrance spells innocence – far from what the marketing team wants you to believe. In this case, marketers grab your attention and exit stage left. But wait. Just wait. They come back. And they bring the “x” in sexy. After all those flighty aldehydes waft off, what remains is indeed curvaceous, spicy, and sultry (due to soft myrrh, quiet patchouli and luxurious suede) – not my daughter’s perfume but mine, all mine.

Rien – Not a fragrance I would normally wear, but I do find it fascinating. A true study in contrast. Could be categorized as a skin scent but so much more than that – spicy, heady, intoxicating, with a haughty, religious edge; like spotting a dark, brooding, attractive man in church. You want to flirt, desperately, but timing is off. The resinous incense and labdanum negate the sex appeal for me, but maybe that is due to my Catholic Mass attending, sexually frustrated youth. What is left reminds me of a crackling fire, an off-the-shoulder sweater and a hot spiced tea on a cold winter day.

Encens et Bubblegum – Where were you when I was twelve? On the verge of adolescence yet still enthusiastically cuddling puppies and playing hopscotch, this adorable mixture of raspberries, peaches and lily of the valley with vanilla, incense and musk to ground it is so playful and sweet I just want to hug it! Although the marketing language mentions darkness, all I see (and smell) is cuteness and sunshine.


The Etat Libre d'Orange scents are available at Henri Bendel and luckyscent.com.  They range in price from $80-99 for 50ml.  I recommend luckyscent for samples of each!

Natori Eau de Parfum

Over the course of the last year, only a few fragrances have caught my eye and my nose. Shall we say I have been a little distracted? Traumatized? In love? On cloud 9? All of the above apply. The attempted hijacking of my family's stability and the birth of my second child converged in the year 2010. The intensity of these experiences cannot be underestimated and yet ... in the midst of the emotion ... Natori caught my interest. Is this the best fragrance of 2010? I highly doubt it. Were there other fragrances that could have captured my attention had I been aware of them? Most definitely.

However, Natori stood out for a reason. I find it utterly mysterious - a rose and plum based chypre full of blurred lines. I am not certain if it is my unexercised nose to blame, but I have a very difficult time deciphering the various notes. I do smell rose petals at first, with some amber and some jasmine second. Purple peony? No. Patchouli? Not so much, thank goodness. Patchouli would ruin its loveliness. Instead, I notice the skin musk note which grows stronger as the fragrance evolves on my skin. Of course, the ylang-ylang piques my interest since I have yet to meet a fragrance with ylang-ylang that I cannot wear.

Ultimately, there is no use trying to pin these notes down. They merge and gather beautifully into a fragrance I find pretty, feminine, and stately, like a determined, focused and characteristically beautiful woman whose inner strength is subtle yet powerful. A woman I aspire to be. She is not giddy and lighthearted and cares not to hang out with the frivolous. She has depth and wisdom. Her Achilles heel? She tends to be a bit somber.

Now I understand its appeal to the woman I have been. Natori was meant for me this year.

Cinquieme Sens

In my wildest dreams, I travel to Paris and develop my love of perfume into a skill. I would imagine other perfume lovers have a similar dream. I am pleased to announce a school of perfumery, with primary headquarters based in Paris, near the Eiffel Tower! How lucky for us that this school is offering courses in the United States. A jaunt to New York City is all it takes!

Here are some details regarding upcoming courses:

2 trainings depending on needs and interests:
- The Perfumer Palette (3 hours): an introductory session to measure olfactory abilities and acquire methods for memorizing odors. September 16, 2009
- Introduction to Technique and Language of Perfumery (2 days): an introduction to the universe of perfume from raw materials to fragrance classification. September 22-23, 2009

For more detailed information, please contact Laura at (212) 686-4135 or laura@cinquiemesense.com. Enjoy!!

Dear Readers

Hello Dear Readers,

The bad news: My daughter is now 5 and 1/2 months old and I am slowly, very slowly, adjusting to my new life with a baby. She takes top priority. And my old self has expired. I am no longer able to be the woman I was pre-Mommyhood! My outlook on life and priorities in life have changed drastically. With that said, I sincerely apologize for not being able to post as often as I, and mabye you, would like. My goal is to post once per week but I have not been able to keep up with even that in the last few months.

The good news: My love of fragrance and perfume remains intact! I hope that I can deliver on my once/week promise in the coming weeks. As always, thank you for your patience and loyalty. God bless you and yours.

Love,
Tamara

Bond No. 9's Stimulus Package!

Very rarely does a perfume house offer free perfume and this deal is too good to pass up!

Bring your empty bottles to any Bond No. 9 counter and you'll receive a refill - on them!

Visit Bond No. 9 Sunday, May 31 through Saturday, June 6 at any of the four Bond No. 9 New York City boutiques (9 Bond Street, 680 Madison Ave, 897 Madison Avenue and 399 Bleecker Street) or any Saks Fifth Avenue and receive a refill with a purchase of any two Bond No. 9 items. Here are the details:

Purchase any Bond No. 9 Scented Candles, the I Love New York Double Decker box of a dozen flacons, the Perfumista’s Custom Blending Box, the Bon Bon or Mini Bon Bon Boxes, Body Silk, Solid Perfume Token, OR any of Eaux de Parfum. And of course bring your empty fragrance flacons as well. Then make a purchase of any two of the above, and you will receive a quick refill. What a green idea to lift a perfumista's spirits!

Bond No. 9 Astor Place

Gemstone colors, warmer temperatures, shorts, sandals, sunscreen, cool, green grass, daffodils in bloom, fluffy clouds in a clear blue sky - all of these have one thing in common: they remind me of spring. I am pleased and honored to review the new offering from one of my favorite houses - Bond No. 9 Astor Place. It represents springtime in a bottle, although its inspiration comes from 4 Astor Place, New York, NY.

"Astor Place, the scent, an intoxicatingly fresh spring floral that starts out with a bold and unapologetically seductive freesia-poppy-violet leaf composition, and then simmers down into the smooth, steady notes of teakwood and musk. It's contemporary Downtown all right, with a lot of grace." Regarding this quote from the press release for the fragrance, I could not have said it better myself. In this case, the marketing description fits perfectly. Floral, flirtatious and graceful drescribe this fresh-as-cut-flowers scent that takes its name from an enclave housing a popular pub, rows of townhomes, a well-known theater and an avante-garde sculpture. They all conspire to create Astor Place - an area buzzing with activity, drawing skateboarders and hairstylists alike.

The juice itself is noteworthy with a long-lasting yet soft floral bouquet that quietly makes its presence known. Violet leaf gives it a freshness reminiscent of dawn on a spring day and although the teakwood and musk are present at the base, the fragrance as a whole possesses a squeaky clean quality. Astor Place would be a great addition to our Perfume for the Occasion: For the Office list for its smoothness, freshness and elegance. Astor Place is indeed a great choice as a Mother's Day gift. It reminds me of the tender, nurturing arms of a mother, a beautiful and graceful mother that is.

The magnificent bottle design, mimicking the mosaic lamp posts and geometric design of "the Cube" of Astor Place in lively spring colors, rounds out this offering from Bond No. 9. Very well done!

Bond No. 9 Astor Place is currently available at Bond No. 9 in two sizes: 100ml for $220 and 50ml for $145. A limited edition 100mL Swarovski crystal bottle is available for Mother's Day for $300.

Tom Ford Champaca Absolute

My inaugural review following the birth of my daughter needed to feature a fragrance I consider unique, posh and enjoyable. I am pleased to feature a Tom Ford creation for his Personal Blends Collection - a hearty floral with an edge - Champaca Absolute.

I must admit from its description I did not expect to like this fragrance. The notes appeared good enough in writing, but held little promise of captivating my newly evolved nose. (Pregnancy had a profound effect on my appreciation of spicier, heartier scents. I was mostly a floral girl prior to carrying a child.) By description, Champaca Absolute appeared a very heady and sweet floral. What I found instead after testing is a heady floral indeed, white in color, with a pinch of golden warmth, making it likeable and interesting enough to consider a purchase.

Its beginning reminds me of sweet fruit, although it is described by its creator as Tokajii wine and cognac. I experience this layer as succulent rather than intoxicating. However, the fragrance does offer an intoxicating effect which develops much later. Following the initial burst of sweetness, the exotic flowers bloom into being with Champaca leading the way and jasmine following closely behind. Heady, powdery and slightly tea-like, this ultra feminine stage of the fragrance turns heads and noses. A creamy undertone lurks as well, making it completely and utterly likeable, like the soft and enveloping petals of exotic white flowers. Finally, the base holds the golden warmth and intoxication I spoke of earlier, with vanilla bean, amber and marron glace (candied chestnuts) offering the flowers a bewitching quality. Altogether femine, warm and sweet, Champaca Absolute is a winner in my book and one that I envision adding to my collection. It asks to be worn on a cooler day, due to its sweetness, and is probably more appropriate for women than men. I am certain many men will enjoy its charms though!

Tom Ford Private Blend Collection Champaca Absolute is available at Nieman Marcus, $180.00-$450.00 for 50ml-250ml of Eau de Parfum.

Ormonde Jayne Woman

A pleasant and surprising side effect of my third trimester of pregnancy is an embracing love of scents I normally would not like. I tried Ormonde Jayne Woman years ago, due to the generosity of a friend who owned it, and quickly dismissed it as "not me" moving on to explore other scents from the London Perfumery. How exciting that as I have fully experienced all ten scents from the lovely house in the last month (thank you Samantha and Sarah!), I have fallen completely for the one scent I thought I never would. It even qualifies as an amber scent with a resonating amber base note so I am keeping my promise to review amber fragrances this month.

Before I describe the fragrance, I must reference the philosophy of the house that created it. Ormonde Jayne's creator, Linda Pilkington, opened her doors on November 30, 2002 in London's old Bond Street after a lifelong love affair with scent. In creating the house, her goal was to "combine elements which [she considers] define true elegance: The quality of English craftsmanship, the art of French perfumery and the sensuality and natural harmony of the Orient." In addition to this brilliant philosophy Ormonde Jayne uses only the finest quality oils and essences, sought throughout the world, in their perfumes, candles, bath oils and body treatments. This truly is a luxury fragrance line and I long for the day I can shop in the store.

Ormonde Woman is a stately fragrance, exceptionally unique, unexpectedly warm and woodsy ... and seductively violet. Its development is textbook marked by a definite personality to each stage. A seductive and warm scent, I am charmed by its curious and exceptional foundation: Black Hemlock absolute. In researching this note, I am surprised to find it is simply an evergreen tree indigenous to the western United States, with "wood much harder than Canadian hemlock." Well, that puts it into perspective. Not really. I know nothing about evergreens other than how their scent mesmerizes me during the holiday season. Using this rare note speaks volumes for the originality of its creator.

With a spicy and green opening that lasts several minutes, the senses are awakened and primed for a fragrant voyage. When I first tested, I wanted the opening to define the fragrance and to last forever. The combination of cardamom, coriander and grass oil was simply heavenly to my nose - unlike most any other scent I had experienced. However, in experiencing this exhilarating stage, I was not aware of the beautiful base to come that would enthrall me even more. The heart of the fragrance dances on the skin featuring that gorgeous hemlock and the introduction of violet with jasmine. Woodsy and slightly masculine describes this phase and it is not my favorite, but pleasing enough. The hemlock outshines the flowers making the heart more resinous than one would expect. It is the dark, mysterious yet delicately sweet base that truly sets this fragrance apart as a gorgeous creation. Here, the violet note truly shines! Yet this violet differs from the many violets that have come before, lacking the candied quality of Guerlain L'Heure Bleue and others like it. This is grown-up and sophisticated violet, deep mahogany in color and Lauren Becall in character. For those with a green thumb, this scent reminds me of the color of angelface dark violet. No nonsense and stately, the amber and sandalwood that surround this violet give it depth. And I am in love.

I highly recommend Ormonde Jayne's sample program. All eleven perfumes come housed in a velvet and satin pouch, with free shipping worldwide. Available online at www.ormondejayne.com.

Ormonde Woman is available as Perfume, 50 mL for £112.00 or Eau de Parfum, 50 mL for £58.00. Be sure to investigate bath products and home scents as well, all at www.ormondejayne.com.

A Brief Note

Hello Dear Readers!

My sincere apologies for a lack of entries over the last few weeks. Closing in on the end of my pregnancy brings with it a "to do" list a mile long along with a jam-packed full-time work schedule in order to prepare for maternity leave. I have some wonderful samples to review, but finding the time to write them is proving challenging. My goal is to have one up by next Friday. So please tell me what you are wearing today. I plan to wear the new Intuition by Ralph Lauren. I liken it to warm and spicy yet soft cocoa powder, a perfect fall scent for a sensitive nose.

Have a wonderful day!